Christian, Connor & I are working hard to get ready for this seasons surf. The late fall and winter bring West and 240 degree North West swells in the 8-12+ foot range. The problem with waves this big is that they come down a little harder hold you down a little longer and take more energy to paddle out to.
If your alive you have probably seen the 30' waves that are becoming ultra popular with tow-in surfers in Hawaii and off Baja, Fiji, Africa, Tahiti and other places. If you havn't seen them, go get a movie with Laird Hamilton (the bad guy in North Shore) "Riding Giants" Heres a pic from Peahi [Pe-ah-hee]-
This is what the waves I caught this morning at Ventura Point felt like (teahup)-
This is probably what it really looked like this is 5-6', though I'm pretty sure it was bigger, the guys in the line up were saying 8'-
Thing is... I was really freaking tired from the day before of working out with Steph (I'm glad no one can see me doing ab-jam) and the 3hour paddle out at Mandoes (even though we hate it there, yesterday was good and the crowd factor was down).
any way I am taking the older boys out to the ventura point after my dentist appt. & school to practice...should be fun and trust me, those boys are better surfers than I am. I sure miss my surf buddy Dave S. Last year we took one look at the waves we ride today and let out a breath of pure terror. Dave would have loved today, cant wait for you to get back bro...peace and a balanced diet. Even though Dave is gone my two little surf buddies are making quite an impact. Christian and Connor are really good and Connor is famous in town for getting barreled one day after a really long ride. Barreled:
By for now, we will try to get pics someday, but were usually in the water.
2 comments:
holy cow! i'd say those are at least 9 feet tall...i mean...that may be a little far fetched, but im telling you...9 feet! whew!
hey happy stinking 11 year stinking marriage! wow. you guys are amazing.
matt- yes, my numerical sequence has changed to: 269-426-1736
it is a pay-as-you go phone, so calls will be cut off at exactly 15 mins. thank you and have a nice day.
(i'd love a call, actually! weekends or after 5pm!)
love ya guys!
jon-boy
I'm going to have a lot of catching up to do when I get back. I'll have to have Connor and Christian, and perhaps Cameron give me all their extensive knowledge and tips.
Glad you boys are havin' fun bustin' the waves.
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