Incredible

12+ foot face at Rincon Point- See the pier in the background? Thats where we surf and the waves were breaking hitting it at its highest point at mid-low tide.

There is the one word I kept hearing over and over in my mind while paddling for our lives: "INCREDIBLE" Dolphins were flying through the waves and getting 8' airs out the back (showoffs).

Christian further deepened his burliness today, paddling out in waves bigger than I have ever seen in my entire life. We went out together and I coached him and encouraged him and he made me super proud! You shouldve seen him when we got back in: "DAD I DID IT!!! I CANT BELIEVE IT!!" His entire body was exploding with emotion, stoked.



I saw him paddling up the face of a 4x overhead wave and all I can compare it to is the perfect storm when that tiny boat was getting worked on those giant waves.

The experience really brings a calm to me. Nothing is like it. Sitting there at the last second as a wave breaks under you the wind blows your hair back straight (wet or not). Intense. Looking outside and seeing a wave gathering and building at least 200 yards away, paddling for your life trying not to get pummeled in front of said wave. Catching the wave is another thing entirely. Looking down 7-15 feet and committing takes a little getting used to. The ride is fast and furious. I actually caught a devil horn left on the last wave of the day.

Christian has graduated. Something changes in you when you conquer that fear.

I suppose you assume it was dangerous. Absolutely if you have not been in the water a lot. There are 3 factors that make it dangerous: 1current 2holddowns 3rocks/the bottom. Current is simple: be in shape and paddle, never against. On holddowns the fact is you get rag-dolled and there is nothing you can do about it but relax for the 10 seconds or so you are under water. Then take a breath and get hit by the next one. Get up onto your board and paddle. The rocks and the bottom were not as much of a factor unless you got caught way inside. This swell was soo far out that we were in pretty deep water and I got worked inside about 6 times (the day before) and never hit bottom.