Swell Warning!! Do not go in the water*** High surf and currents make swiming deadly!!!

***[Beep... Buzzz...]*** "This is a warning from the american broadcasting system... High Surf Advisory..."

WOOOO HOOOO!!!!!!

So right after this posted over airwaves all over So cal. We pushed our way into the greatest surf of the season yet!!!

The kids say: "the waves were FURIOUS!" Even Connor the Rincon-man was afraid (and thank God) to paddle out into the heaviest sets we have seen this season.

Personally I am a little too (insert something not flattering here) to have stayed in. I paddled out at the Island's bridge or pier, and was brutally pummelled until I finally made it out about a quarter mile down the coast. Prayed out loud between huge white water balls of fury and holding my breath and paddling, til the arms and stomach felt like giving in/out, for fear of getting pushed into the stationary parts of the coast (pointy rocks).

Cameron~the twin-fin

Yet again humbled by the sea!!!! But...

Even though we only have pics of Connor 2 days after this swell (which was still over head on the sets), we have the memories. Bcaus all that work and pounding and hacking up seaweed was sooo worth the prize:

Overhead, point break, offshore winds 300 yard rides. On a 7'6" al Merrick CI bigman Shorty and a 5'1" Channel Islands Bobby Martinez model (with leopard pattern). Connor riding waved 3 foot over his head, Furious. They sleep good after these days. Just to give you an idea of the size Friday and Saturday and Sunday take the wave Cameron is on and imagine it is as high as the horizon in the background, then add a few feet. Someday I am going to bring a camera. Thing is we have a policy to go with nothing more than we can carry out into the water (besides car and wax). One reason is that people steal. So if someone can convince Stephanie (who took the pics above) to come out every once in a while that would be great.